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Big-wave surfer who's made of The Right stuff

Posted in : Surfing

(added last year!)

He wiped out twice in 40ft waves and tore a medial ligament before he caught this monster (pictured) at a break known as The Right, off southwest Western Australia.  "I knew as soon as I saw the wave the adrenaline just took over the pain," he said. Last night, the pain was all worth it when he picked up $20,000 at the award ceremony in Bondi.

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(added last year!) / 819 views